Integral9 January 13, 2009 Share January 13, 2009 So the wife and I have been planning on getting a large tank since we got into the hobby. And now we have the tank, stand and canopy. Courtesy of chefthomasr. It's 135gallon (72x18x24 LxWxH) with a very nice tall stand and canopy. The plan is to put the tank were my 55 gallon now sits, so there will be a tank move, a tank build and then finally 3 tank tear downs as I move the best of my 3 current tanks into this new(er) one. Here is a pick as it sits now in my basement. The tank is sitting backwards in the stand. So you are looking at the back of the stand and the front of the tank. There is some packing wrap on the stand that I used to haul it and you can see my chili-pepper christmas light reflecting off the glass. (I love the chilis) I gotta clean the tank out and move it before I start it up. I would like to drill a couple of holes into for over flows as well, but I'm scared. However, I think I hate overflow boxes more than I am scared to drill this sucka. So I'm gonna get some practice glass from home depot and practice a couple of times. If anyone is drilling a tank anytime soon and doesn't mind a cheering section, I'd love to stop by. I'm still in the planning stages thus far so any rec's would be appreciated. I'm trying to figure out what to do with the plumbing at the moment since that will determine how many holes I need to drill. Lighting: 60" ATI Power Module w 4xT5 36" IceCap T5 Reflectors x 4 w/ end caps and ballasts from my 55 gallon's T5 retro. Skimmer: ATI Bubble Master 200 Pumps: (this is what I have available to use at the moment) Mag 5 (w/ Mag 7 impeller upgrade) Iwaki MD55RLT Power Heads: (again, this is what I have available at the moment) Several Maxijet 600 Several Aquaclears <-- I hate these pumps. I'm going to relagate them to the salt mixing vat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 January 12, 2011 Author Share January 12, 2011 Back from the DEAD! Hard to believe I started this almost 2 years ago... wow. Well with budget cuts and a new family member and more budget cuts this project got sidelined for a while, but now it's back and I'm in full "gett'er dun" mode. A lot has happened since I posted last. I will get some pics and post them up here later. I got a new light for the tank, Aquacintics Constellation and a new skimmer, SWC Xtreme Cone Mini S. Not sure why it's called a "Mini S" as it's minimum rating is 150gallons. Last winter I drilled the tank and the soon to be sump tank successfully. This was easier than I thought, just took some patience. Over the summer, I got the stand and canopy sanded, restained and glazed. It's now a dark cherry stain with a satin gloss finish and sea-horse handles made from aged bronze. It looks beautiful. The tank has been cleaned out completely and washed. It almost looks new. But it got left out in the rain and has some lime stains on it now. Shouldn't be any problem for some white vinegar and a sponge. Last weekend I moved my 55 gallon tank across the room to it's new temporary home. I'm in the process of breaking that down. Some of the inhabitants will make it to the new tank, but that's has to be ready first. The move took a whole day, and I think I was able to finally conquer my algea issue in there, eventhough it took quite a bit of elbow grease. I had a quart sized bowl about 2/3 full of bubble algea.. Looked like a really nasty bowl of sour grapes. I tossed them into the woods for the animals to check out. Frozen green algae balls anyone? I also took up the carpet where the new tank will be sitting and set the tank down on the cement floor and leveled it with some shims. Shims weren't my first choice, but they seem to be doing ok. Now for my plumbing plan. I am going to use flexPVC between the two tanks and from the pumps to the hardline PVC which will run to the returns. The hardline PVC will be mounted to the stand so it will not move around. The 33 gallon tank still needs it's baffles and I've contacted Sterling Glass about it yesterday, but I have not received any response. The fuge is currently the sump / fuge on my 55 gallon and will be plumbed in once I am ready to take down the 55gallon. Until then I will run fuge-less. I am fuzzy on what to do with all my returns so I took my best guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearTheTerps January 12, 2011 Share January 12, 2011 (edited) With having 2 drains and 2 returns, I think you may run into some problems with the water levels in the fuge, and with a top-off if you plan on installing one. How do you plan on keeping a constant water level in the fuge? If you restrict the drain into the fuge to match the Mag 7 return that may work for awhile, but I would think over time it would need to be adjusted alot. You run the risk of overflowing the the fuge if the drain rate is too high, or you also will have problems if the drain rate is too slow and you run the pump dry. As for adding a top off to the current configuration you have 2 returns areas where the water levels will drop due to evaporation. That means you would need to place 2 sensors for the top-off, which just leads to more equipment and more points of failure. I think you would better off connecting the fuge to the sump. Remove the Mag 7 return( this gives you more useable space in the fuge, a bonus), raise the water level in the fuge so that it is higher then the MAX water level in you sump return area, then plumb the fuge so that it drains into the return area of the sump. This set up would eliminate all the problems mentioned above, and give you better peace of mind not worring about a potenional problem. Edited January 12, 2011 by FearTheTerps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inspector January 12, 2011 Share January 12, 2011 Better late than never. Don't know if we can wait another 2 years for the next post though. Alittle valve happy on the red line, but nice control. Keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind January 13, 2011 Share January 13, 2011 Wow this may be the slowest tank build thread I've ever seen. With having 2 drains and 2 returns, I think you may run into some problems with the water levels in the fuge, and with a top-off if you plan on installing one. I think if the valves are kept open between the two sump tanks the water level will be equal and will not pose a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 January 13, 2011 Author Share January 13, 2011 I wanted to get some pics up last night, but ended up going to bed early. Sorry. I have shown this to other people and keeping the water level even between the sump and fuge is almost always their first comment. So I guess the diagram isn't all that clear. Sorry about that. My 3D drawing skills aren't that good. The Iwaki pump will be behind the canal linking the two tanks and the mag7 will not be conencted to it either. I plan on keeping the valve fully open between the sump and fuge. The only reason it's there is so I can run the system w/out the fuge until I can take it off my 55g and in case of disaster and I have to remove one of the tanks. The ATO sensors will be in the sump as I suspect the lowest water level will be there due to it having the stronger pump. The drain lines have some extra valves so I can run the tank w/out the fuge until I get my 55 gallon down. After that they will allow me to control how much water drains into the fuge or sump should that become a problem. I placed my plumbing order yesterday. I was hoping to get the plumbing done this weekend, but it won't be here until next week. I guess I will get the sump ready instead. Sterling Glass still hasn't gotten back to me so I guess I will measure the sump and go up to lowes to see if they can cut the glass for me. Question for you all though. I have an ASM Mini-G skimmer on my 55g and there will be room for it. Would it be worth keeping it running? I don't really have anything to occupy it's current location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extreme_tooth_decay January 13, 2011 Share January 13, 2011 I agree with FearTheTerps. I would connect the fuge to the sump and just have 1 return. I am not sure that the levels in the 2 sumps will be the same. The water will swish around in the red line, which won't be perfectly level. I had a very similar set up, and I chose to attach the sump and fuge. See pic. In this case, I gravity overflow-ed the fuge into the sump using an overflow box, but there are many ways to do it. Fuge (40BR) on left, sump (55) on right, tank (125) upstairs. This setup worked great. If I had drilled the fuge I wouldn't need the overflow box, but I like overflow boxes more than I like drilling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearTheTerps January 13, 2011 Share January 13, 2011 That piece of plumbing is hard to see at first, I thought it was just the base where the iwaki is sitting. I think that would keep your water levels in check. Are you plumbing that piece with ridged or flex plumbing??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extreme_tooth_decay January 13, 2011 Share January 13, 2011 ignore. just read your last post. i was confused about your diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 January 13, 2011 Author Share January 13, 2011 I am planning on using flex plumbing between the two so I don't have to worry much about the difference in the heights of the bulkheads. Otherwise, I would probably end up having to put something under the fuge to raise it up a bit as it looks like the bulkhead on it sits lower than the one I drilled on the tank. The sump is acrylic, so I would need to support the entire base, not just the edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 February 2, 2011 Author Share February 2, 2011 Disaster... my wife was showing off the tank at my son's 1st b-day party and dropped one of the doors for the canopy onto one of the cross braces breaking it clean off. Luckily it didn't go through the bottom too! From what I understand these are critical to the tank's support. I have no idea how to repair the bracing or if it's even possible. ughhh.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind February 2, 2011 Share February 2, 2011 You can replace the plastic frame or just splice the brace with nylon screws and plexi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind February 2, 2011 Share February 2, 2011 I got my replacement 125g tank frames from House of Tropicals. Try giving them a call. 410-761-1113 You could also try calling a local fish store too and I know glasscages.com sells them. Here is a thread for using the nylon screws and acrylic as I mentioned earlier. This brace will also allow light in better then the original brace. http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106703 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearTheTerps February 2, 2011 Share February 2, 2011 (edited) have you noticed the glass bowing at all??? You can ease some of the pressure by lowering the water level. Of course this will mean having to take your sump off line, and moving stuff like your heaters to the DT. Edited February 2, 2011 by FearTheTerps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 February 3, 2011 Author Share February 3, 2011 Apparently my wife is on a roll this week. Last night the radiator fan disintegrated in the Audi while she was driving home. I think it also took out the radiator as it was out of coolant this morning. I am having it towed into the shop for inspection. As for the tank, fortunately it was still empty, so it's not a total disaster. I haven't finished the plumbing as I cannot glue the PVC together with a 1yr old in the house (VOC issues) so I am waiting for a day where the glue won't freeze before it has a chance to set. I have been looking around the internet for possible solutions to fix this brace and I have found a couple. I have seen others using the nylon nuts and bolts to repair. However the largest tank I've seen that used on was a 55g. My tank is over twice as big so I wonder if the nylon bolts would be strong enough. Regardless, I need to take a closer look at it to see if i will even have enough room for the screw bits. If not, I will probably try to bond the broken peice back in place with some 2 part epoxy. If that fails I'll have to give BRK a call to replace the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind February 3, 2011 Share February 3, 2011 If you are using standard PVC primer and cement it will not freeze. It may take a few more minutes for the solvent to evaporate and allow the parts to bond but it will not freeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearTheTerps February 3, 2011 Share February 3, 2011 Wait a minute, it's still not wet yet??? This is the worlds longest build thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 February 3, 2011 Author Share February 3, 2011 Hmm... I might try using the regular stuff. I know the low VOC cement gets thick in the cold, making it difficult to work with. Got a call back from the repair shop on my car.... $2700 to fix the radiator, fan assembly, expansion tank, oil change, coolant flush, transmission flush, battery, and ignition module... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind February 4, 2011 Share February 4, 2011 Hmm... I might try using the regular stuff. I know the low VOC cement gets thick in the cold, making it difficult to work with. Yes, the low VOC type uses a water based solvent so it does change when cold. The low VOC also takes longer to set up. Ouch on the repair bill!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 February 14, 2011 Author Share February 14, 2011 Yup. I'm contemplating putting the car up for parts / repair on craigslist. About the Tank: After a closer inspection of the damaged frame, it will not be repairable as the breakage extends to the glass. So there is no place for me to attach a patch piece. So I ordered a new frame , hopefully it will be here soon. Anyone have any thoughts on how to / how not to remove an old frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearTheTerps February 14, 2011 Share February 14, 2011 (edited) Turn the tank upside down, sitting on the damaged trim. Get some rubbing alcohol and pour some onto the outside of the glass, allowing the alcohol to wick into the area between the trim and the glass. Do this around the entire perimeter of the tank, a little bit of alcohol will do. The alcohol will work as a solvent and will help loosen the bond of the silicone between the glass and the trim. Let it sit for 10-15 mins or so and then slowing work to pry the trim off. Ive heard of several people have good success with this on other forums, I think someone here did the same recently, but cant remember who it was. Edited February 14, 2011 by FearTheTerps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDReef February 15, 2011 Share February 15, 2011 I think someone here did the same recently, but cant remember who it was. That was me. Take a look at my second post in this thread Here. You need to run a knife along the entire edge inside and out to start and then put some rubbing alcohol into the trim piece and let it sit for a little bit. If you have any questions just shoot me a PM. Darrell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 April 27, 2011 Author Share April 27, 2011 Another long over due update: First off, the only update to the tank is the 18" strip off the side I have been able to remove with my dremel. My strong man bailed on me, or rather, his doctor told him to bail on me. So I am forced to tackle repairing the frame by myself. As such, the tank is staying where it is as I cannot lift a 180lb, 6ft long glass aquarium off its stand and haul it outside. So I am forced to try and remove the frame with out soaking the silicon in alcohol. The stand is taller than the ones made today which puts the tank up higher, which I like. But this also means I am working about 6ft off the ground which makes it hard to get leverage against the silicon. When I finally got the first peice off, i nearly fell over backwards. Fortunately, there was a wall there to catch me. After that I started to work on the next peice. I figured I might be able to cut this off in pieces easier than whole. However I am not having much luck and I am getting tired of spending all my weekend free time (which is severely limited) doing a lot of work with nothing to show but a small cut in a small piece of plastic. So I am starting to consider just buying a new tank. I have no idea what a new 135g tank would cost and looking for a used one is not very fruitful as a 135g aquarium is not a common size. I could go with a different size, but the 72" x 18" foot print the stand has, doesn't fit many tanks of different sizes. Not to mention that I don't have a truck to haul a 6ft aquarium out of someone's house with.... In hind sight, if I had gotten a 120 I could have replaced the tank twice by now.... ughh.. (face, meet palm) This project is starting to look more like me just downgrading to a 30g as I've already comitted to taking down my 55 and w/out a 135 to move into... there isn't much choice. That's too bad as I've already gotten a reef keeper, ATO, light, skimmer, etc for the 135. I could use the ATO and RK on the 30g, but the skimmer is probably 30g by itself and the light... well I could put 3 30g tanks under it. While I was saving up some money to fix my Audi, some kid backed his truck into her. A blessing in disguise! So his insurance paid up and since I got more than what I was going to sell her for, I took the insurance money and sold her for $1 to a mechanic / SCCA Miata racer. If anyone knows of a 135g for sale or feels like moving a tank one day this or next weekend, lemme know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roni April 28, 2011 Share April 28, 2011 Sounds like an ordeal. Maybe post in FS/WTB about the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 April 28, 2011 Author Share April 28, 2011 I've thought about that and I am always looking at the FS/WTB threads anyway. But I haven't decided if I want the "new" tank or not yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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