[trockafella]

Welcome, this is my thread for my JBJ NanoCube 12. It was originally set up on april 25 to house zoas due to a rabbitfish in my other tank. I couldnt come to a decision on lighting initially, but I was pretty sure I wanted to go LED. So the tank continued to run with just a compact flourescent bulb on it and unstocked. I considered the PAR38 bulb, but was just never sold on it. Then in the last month I started really looking into the DIY LED kits. I realized that it didnt look that hard to do, and for close to the price of a PAR38 bulb I could have a custom set up the way I want it. In the meantime the tank had continued running and had a nice long cycle. I went ahead and ordered a 6 bulb kit from Rapidled.com and a few other things to make my 10 bulb unit. Im very pleased with the end results of the lights and tank, and after almost a week the corals in there are doing fine. It has a minimal amount of rock and sand, but is packed with life (pods/shrimp etc), but I havent added any fish yet, and dont know what I will add, probably only 1 fish though, maybe a naso tang. I have started stocking the tank with corals from my main tank, zoas, shrooms, rics, leathers. The LED lighting is strong and may be to bright for some things, but thats the fun of a new tank is finding the perfect place for things. Here is a little more about the set up

The tank has been upgraded with an extra pump (mj1200) with a hydor rotating thing and it still has the stock pump on other side. I use a 1/2 unit of chemi-pure elite in the first compartment and cheato and rock rubble (coming soon) in the second compartment. 2 pieces of live rock and a few pounds of black and white live sand from my other tank. I do 2-3gal water changes every 7-10 days. The lighting is 10 Cree XRE bulbs, 5 blue, 5 white, each color is powered by there own meanwell LPC 35-700, There are thermal epoxied to a 9" x 6" heatsink. I will list parts and prices on the light build next.

Im looking forward to seeing this tank progress and like everyone else im very interested to see how the LEDs do. I will try my best to keep this thread updated on the tank. Also, im open to any suggestions and comments so please feel free to let me know what you think. Thanks..!

[trockafella]

This will be my "LED light build" its basically going to be a list of parts and I will post the reference I followed on how to do it.. The part I found to be the most challenging was the soldering. I dont think its hard, just really takes some getting used to if youve never done it before. I actually bought a few blank cree stars (only $1 each) to practice soldering wores to, just to get the feel of it. I would recommend anyone soldering for the first time to do so, it really helped so I wouldnt screw up the real thing. The only thing I left to do on the lights is add the fan to the heatsink, It doesnt get to hot to touch, but it gets warm, and I would like to make it last a little while.. Here are prices of the build including some equipment, then to be followed by pics. There is some initial cost in buying tools/equipment, but I feel those are good purchases you will use many times down the road. Please feel free to ask questions or post comments, and I also hope this will encourage some of the skeptical newbie diyers (like myself) to realize just how easy an LED light project can be.

From Rapidled.com:

- 1 06 Premium LED Do-It-Yourself Retrofit Kit
@ $69.00 = $69.00

- 1 5.9" x 9" Aluminum Heat Sink
@ $10.00 = $10.00

- 2 CREE XR-E Q5 Cool White 3W LED with Black Lens
@ $6.75 = $13.50

- 2 CREE XR-E Royal Blue 3W LED with Black Lens
@ $6.75 = $13.50

-1 Mean Well LPC-35-700W constant current driver
@ $15.00 = $15.00

-2 CREE WPI Gold Plated Star PCB
@ $1.00 = $2.00

-1 3-Prong Power Cord
@ $2.50 = $2.50

+$6 shipping ---> Total $131.50

Other items needed:

-40w soldering iron $18

-Solder (the right kind) $7

-Solder Gun Holder/Cleaner $8 (make sure you have a holder, you will need this)

-Gauged Wire Stripper $9

-18 Gauge Wire $7 (45', 3 15' rolls in diff colors)

-Standard Corner Braces $4 (2 pairs)

-Self Piercing Screws $5

-8" x 12" Steel Square $5 (this is a great tool for measuring and marking where the LEDs will go.!)

-15" Plant Holding Bracket $6 (aka plant hanger)

-Plant Basket Extender Chain $3

-Additional random things $25

** 12pk Newcastle $15

Doing something yourself and it ACTUALLY works -- Priceless

Total for other things approx $100 -- But remmeber, you will have lots left over for future products, so dont feel that you just "wasted" that money, in the end, it will be money well spent.

I will post a few pics of the build and some thoughts a little later..

[trockafella]

Here is the link to the instructions I followed --> http://www.reefledli...how-to-diy-led/

[Happyfeet]

Very cool!!

[BowieReefer84]

That is a great diy article. Makes me want to try. . . $500+ is a lotta cash though. I change my mind too much, and don't ever see myself keeping a tank the same size for as long as that light would last. BUT, it is really really cool. Nice job, and congrats on getting everything done properly your first time.

[Coral Hind]

The tank looks great, very bright. It looks a lot better then going the Par38 route.

[trockafella]

Coral Hind, on 29 July 2010 - 10:34 AM, said:

The tank looks great, very bright. It looks a lot better then going the Par38 route.

I agree completely.! It is really bright, but there isnt much light overflow, I will post a pic of the tanks together, and the halides are everywhere. I used a 60 optic and its approx 8" above the water. I would say its a 14k ish color, but I like it. Made me realize just how blue my other tank is. 2 x 250 20k and VHO actinics. It really was a fun project and im happy with the results. Now I wanna see how things will grow under it.

[trockafella]

Amazing how much light overflow there really is.! Thats why I keep plants there, they actually grow rather well next to the tank, also good for hiding things (ie plugs/cords) and it gives you good feng shui.

Ooops, deleted pics from above. here they are.

 led.jpg (105.5K)
Number of downloads: 38

 led8.jpg (106.52K)
Number of downloads: 59

 led and dt.jpg (102.33K)
Number of downloads: 50

This post has been edited by trockafella: 29 July 2010 - 09:58 AM

[DDiver]

dude that is bright...great job.

[bluce]

I have a quick question - do the par38,s just screw into a standard house light socket?
Anyone know the intesity and color of the par 38s? I'm thinking about adding 2 of them as more focused spotlights to my tank.
I have an Oceanic 76 gallon 1/2 circle - the lights would be at least 26 inches above the sand as the dimensions are 45" 25" 23"

Brian

[zygote2k]

bluce, on 29 July 2010 - 04:40 PM, said:

I have a quick question - do the par38,s just screw into a standard house light socket?
Anyone know the intesity and color of the par 38s? I'm thinking about adding 2 of them as more focused spotlights to my tank.
I have an Oceanic 76 gallon 1/2 circle - the lights would be at least 26 inches above the sand as the dimensions are 45" 25" 23"

Brian

Hijacker!

T-
The tank looks good. Time to do the big one with LED's too.

[Coral Hind]

bluce, check out these thread.
http://www.wamas.org..._1&#entry323924
http://www.wamas.org..._1&#entry316075

trockafella, wow that is some nice bright light coming from the new fixture. I would be careful when adding new corals that they don't get burned.

[trockafella]

Bily & Rob, thanks.. The blasting light is from the halides on the other tank. The LEDs are really bright, but focused straight down.
David, I took a few extra pieces ( of sps) I had and put them in different locations to see what works the best before I move over things I care about. But that is certainly something to be careful of, im I would think the PAR numbers are pretty good in the middle of the tank.

And Bluce, talk to Zygote, he is the former PAR38 expert, now owner of the mythical "Photon Canon"